TMB - Day 9: Chamonix

Although not complete my Tour Du Mont Blanc is over, what an absolute roller-coaster of emotions it has been - any one reading this blog has read a considerablely toned down version of those emotions.
Now I can look at things retrospectively there is only one real regret and that is that initially I only allowed 9 days to complete the walk, has I allowed 10 days I may have completed the entire route - although having lost an entire day because of the weather even that may not have been enough.
I can say without any doubt that the moment of the trip was the summit of Grand Col Ferret, a genuinely beautiful place but combined with a massive release of built-up emotion.
As I tried to sleep last night I was trying decide which of the 3 countries I've visited on this trip was my favourite, it was close between France and Switzerland but the Swiss just have it - if Courmayeur had a campsite the Italians may have stolen it because Val Ferret is sensational pretty, the feedback on the Facebook photo from my tent suggests that I am not the only person to agree with that sentiment.
After my dodgy campsite last night it was early up and out this morning, to my suprise today is the 50th anniversary of the Mont Blanc tunnel and as a result my bus ticket to Chamonix was free.
I had to kill 3 hours in Chamonix before my train departed for annecy, my home for the next 2 nights. Chamonix is a really nice, surrounded on both sides by the mountains but also really well architected and elegant place. I'm guessing that it's an expensive place to live, the lunch I bought certainly was not cheap.
I am presently on the train to Annecy and should be arriving soon, I shall continue to update if anything exciting happens.
Here's another picture, not sure which one just yet. 

TMB - Day 8: Courmayeur (100km)

Journey's end, or so I thought!
It would seem that despite being quite a big town there is not a campsite for miles and the public transport stops at at about 5pm, it would also appear to be full of rich people - all 3 things mean that instead of heading back towards Chamonix I'm having to do a spot of cheeky wild-camping just outside the town.
Todays walk was fairly straight forward, no real menaces, although I was definitely starting to feel the milage in the legs and the finsl descent into Courmayeur wasn't much fun.
Tomorrow is the next part of the challange, getting back to France so I can continue with the rest of my trip.
Here's a nice photo of Mont Blanc for you to enjoy!

TMB - Day 8: Rifugio Bonatti (87km)

The view this morning was amazing and worth the horrific night in the tent. It is now lunch time and, although the sun is shining, the wind is ferocious. It is at least blowing in the general direction I'm heading.
It should be only about 4 more hours to Courmayeur and the end of my walk, it will, at least, be nice to finish in sushine the way it started. Hopefully the last thing I see on the trail will be Mont Blanc, the sky is cloud-free at the moment so hopefully it will stay that way!

TMB - Day 8: In a tent, on a mountain, freezing (85km)

So this would appear to be my last day walking the TMB and what a way to stsrt, I knew when I pitched the tent last night that I was at an altitude where it would be considerably below zero.
It is now 5.45am and I have just had to make an emergency pee break, the temperature inside the tent is 3.5 degrees and I've slowly put more layers on during the night. I am in my sleeping bag wearing everything I had on yesterday, jacket, hat, gloves, the lot.
Going to try a bit more sleep, it'll be a few hours yet before the sun is high enough to warm this side of the valley :(

TMB - Day 7: nr. Rifugio Bonatti (85km)

Wow, wow, wow, the Grand Col Ferret. I came so close to bottling-out of this, after yesterdays weather and the forecast of snow at the top combined with sub-xero temperatures I really didn't fancy this climb. I've been up plenty of lesser climbs and been scared to death by sheer cliffs and this one has snow on it, to make matters worse for the past 2 nights I've had dreams which involved me falling of mountain ledges - the joy of vertigo! The truth of it is that there were no precarious cliffs or dodgy mountain passes just the most stunning scenery I can recall, it is such an amazing place and I'm so pleased I had the guts to do it. I've lucky enough to see some spectacular things up here so far but this eclipses the rest hands-down. I should also mention that it is impossible to do justice to something like this with a camera, even more difficult when the camera in question (already fixed once) dies again! A Russian camera that fails in cold weather, am I the first person to see the obvious design-flaw in that! Luckily I was still able to capture some images although it was such a strong wind at the peak it was barely possible to stand up let along take pictures. The path down from the Col leads down into the Ferret Valley and Italian soil for the first time. It is on the east side of the valley at 2000m where I am now camped - back to wild-camping, all luxuries are gone again. Tent temperature is currently 3 degrees but it'll be worth it for the view I wake up to tomorrow morning :)

TMB - Day 7: Le Peule (71km)

My fears of today have thankfully, thus far, not materialised and I am already over 2000m. The last refuge before I head up and over the Grand Col is a beauful converted farm building which now serves as a restaurant, unfortunately it has been over-run by a huge crowd of Americans who seem to have adopted the English approach of asking louder until you get want you want.
Sat outside in the sun but as was predicted the wind had reduced temperatures to well below freezing, had a really nice hot chocolate with a ham and cheese sandwich so everything is great. Only 500m to the summit, that's 500m up, probably 3km in actual distance. The snow is settled at something like 2200m so I'll be needing the snow shoes :)

TMB - Day 6 La Fouly (67km)

Despite the rain falling for most of the day, thankfully it has now stopped, spent a really enjoyable evening chatting with a Scot and 3 Belgians. A good chance to exchange stories of the trip so far and share European similarities such as being crap at football and losing the Eurovision song contest - a bit of politics as well just to lighten the mood.
Sadly the others are all heading north as I continue my journey south. It will also be the first time I get to face the bitter alpine winds and should be faced with minus temperatures. All my thermals will be on and I shall not be hanging about, it has already dropped to 3 degrees this evening so at least that has given some preparation after the scorching days I've had upto now. The big thing is the Grand Col, once I'm over that things will be a touch easier and it is meant to warm up towards the weekend.
My focus is now solely on this mountain and having already waited a day I'll be relieved to get it done and look forward to some slightly less daunting walking in my final few days.
Going to try and sleep now so I'm ready for the morning.

TMB - Day 6: La Fouly (67km)

Well, today has been a complete non-starter. It has rained constantly since last night and I have moved from tent to the communal building, that's it!
The reports for tomorrow seem fairly positive so I should be back on the trail, I wouldn't normally mind the weather but in such exposed areas in do feel a touch vunerable. In addition to everything else my vertigo does cause me real issues near steeper slopes and anything that makes me even slightly uncertain about my footing is not desired.
I've still got a couple of days to get to Courmayeur so there's no reason to rush or do anything stupid, I'll just see what the weather looks like in the morning and take it from there.
I am enjoying reading 'The Hunger Games' though.

TMB - Day 5: La Fouly (67km)

Right, I can't go online but it would appear that email works.
So you now seen my delightful lunch here are a couple of other photos from this morning, didn't  take much this afternoon - a combination of battery preservation and motivated walking. They'll be plenty of pictures from the other cameras, you'll just have to wait for those :)

TMB - Day 5: La Fouly (67km)

It's been a busy afternoon and I've managed to get significantly further on. The path, as was suggested, was fairly even - although in this part of the world that is considerably different to Britain.
From the pitutesque scenery of Chanpex this afternoon was actually quite low-key, wooded hillsides and valley meadows (still very pretty).
The excellent news for anyone who has to come into contact with me is that I am at a proper campsite and have had my first shower and change of clothes in 5 days - considering the amount of sweat I've produced it wasn't as bad as it could have been.
On a less enjoyable note the weather has taken a severe turn for the worse, it is raining heavily and there is thunder overhead. The forecast for tomorrow is as bad and likely to be snow above 2000m - I'm supposed to be climbing Grand Col Ferret (2537m). Might be a day in the tent and catch up time later in the week, they just be wrong like  UK weather forecasters.
I'm on the weakest wi-fi in the world but I'm going to try and send a photo, if that works more may follow.

TMB - Day 5 : Champex (51km)

Quick 4km this morning to Champex, arrived just in time for lunch - had an amazing cold meat selection with bread and cheese. Champex is the modt beautiful place and on yet another sunny day even more attractive. I would send pictures but my data usage for today is stuffed and it'll cost me a fortune - I'll send more tomorrow.
Heading to La Fouly now, apparently it's fairly flat (not sure I believe that!).
A bientot.

TMB - Day 4: nr. Plan de L'Au (47km)

I've taken my boots off and my god do my feet stink! The change of socks this morning does not appear to have helped.
Unlike the last few days I hope you can detect a less negative opening to my evening update.
It has been challenging but without my self-imposed pressure I have taken my time, stopped whenever possible, had my fantastic lunch in Trient and after all that I've covered my distance than I planned and more than either of the previous days.
It's been a day of ups and downs, uphill for a few km then downhill for a few km, most being fairly steep which has really punished the soles of my feet - I've decided to count the bits that don't hurt, it's much easier.
Sorry, there won't any amazing pictures of my tent perched high on a mountain, stuck in the middle of a wood could be anywhere!
Au revoir.

TMB - Day 4 : Triente (35km)

A much more enjoyable day so far, I've reset my target and now intend to finish in Courmayeur. The pressure to keep going at all costs is now off and with a daily average of about 15km I can actually enjoy this quite amazing place.
Had a bit of a lie-in this morning and have done about 6km, I've now stopped in Trient for a spot of lunch. My french was just about enough to be understood but not to the point that I knew exactly what I'd ordered - I had a rough idea. Turns out it was the mother of all cheese on toast.
Think I'll need all energy I can get I've got a really steep climb ahead of me followed by a longer less steep climb.
Here are more pictures, please note in particular the 3 stage cheese on toast from Cafe Moret - pure cholesterol goodness!

TMB - Day 3: nr. Col du Balme (29km)

If I'm completely honest this isn't going well!
Two days in and I'm way behind my distance with almost no hope of catching up. The weather was once again amazing, at one point my thermometer recorded 27 degrees - great if you're on a beach!
It's also a real struggle to get enough water, I'm drinking litres but there aren't many places to refill.
On the plus side I'm in my lovely warm sleeping bag hoping to get a good nights sleep. Tomorrow I re-adjust my plans.
Sorry no photos
I've also got a broken camera a broken spork :(

TMB - Day 3: Aguillete des posettes (27km)

Another ridiculous mountain climbed, my legs are like rubber and I'm really really tired. Got another 4km to the next refuge, hopefully the descent will be easy.
More pictures.

TMB - Day 3: Tre-Le-Champ (24km)

Another hot day and although I've got to the point I hoped to be at yesterday, it is now the warmest part of the day and I've got a long uphill to do.
Although it's only the second day I'm thinking I might have to shorten the route. The paths aren't easy, the heat is a little uncomfortable and the weight of the pack up the hills just slows me down so much. Ultimately, at the moment I'm just not enjoying it very much and that upsets me because I've been looking forward to this for months.
Here's another pretty picture.

TMB - Day 2: Le Flegere (17km)

I knew today would be though but it went so far beyond that! A little short of 12 hours walking and I finally made to a campsite, 7km short of my target but it could have been so much worse. 10km of  muderous climbing and then another 2km coming down that at times resembled an obstacle course, thankfully the last 5km were undulating but not too severe.
I've climbed over a mile in height, reached a maximum height of nearly 2 miles above sea-level and I'm totally shattered.
Got to try and make up a little time tomorrow if I can.
Goodnight.

Here's some pictures., well one anyway!

TMB - Day 3: Le Christ-Roi (2km)

1 hour and 2km into the walk and I'm already 1180m above sea-level. It's been tough going and the temperature is already up towards 20 degrees, thankfully it's been mostly  forest so far and the shade has been a huge relief. Even with the shade I am soaked through with sweat and taking the opportunity to get some fluids.
It doesn't seem that it is going to get any easier for quite a few hours yet but I'm not having any real issues with my pack, so that is good news and if I do start to feel a bit tired I can just look at the scenery, that's pretty uplifting....

TMB - Day 1: Les Houches

After a very early start this morning, by 11:30am I was already in my 3rd country of the day, I find myself in the beautiful village of Les Houches. Located in the Chamonix valley at the foot of the Alps it is a genuinely spectacular place, only now that I'm here do I have a real gauge of the challenge ahead - these mountains are huge. When I found out the other day that the higher peaks along the TMB are nearly twice the height of Ben Nevis it isn't hard to realise that it's going to be tough but seeing these monsters in real life is different, very different and if I'm honest pretty terrifying.
Since arriving around lunch time it's been a very sedate day, set up camp, have a wander round the village to find the actual TMB route ready for tomorrow and then late lunch and a siesta. A local cat decided that I didn't want the ham I'd bought for lunch and while I was sleeping waltzed off with it.
It has been just the most relaxing day and with glorious sun all day, temperatures around 25 degrees, the perfect tonic before I set about the huge climbs in the morning.
The weather reports are now suggesting decreased chance of rain and clearer skies which, if they're right, is a massive boost.
Should be quite an early start tomorrow, 24km to cover and mostly uphill, in addition there a couple of big peaks to summit - if it goes well it'll really settle my nerves and fill me with, if it goes badly well that just isn't going to happen. Confidence not complacency!
Au revoir!